Thursday, October 11, 2018

Tiger's Nest - Is it really worth all the hype & hike??




Being the most famous spot in the whole country,the Tiger's Nest is probably on the bucket list of most nature enthusiasts & travelers around the world.
When I first saw this image in Facebook,it got stuck on my mind.And since then I was looking for an opportunity to visit the place.Last month I got to fulfill my longing wish to visit the famous Taktsang Monastery aka the Tiger's Nest.

HISTORY

According to the legend,Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) flew to this location on the back of a tigress from Tibet,in order to defeat the evil lurking over the country.The Guru dominated over evil,and afterwards went to a cave inside the mountain where he meditated for three years three months and three days.Whereas the tigress went into another cave.After meditation,Guru Rinpoche emerged from the cave in eight incarnated forms & thus the place became holy.
In 1692,Tenzing Rabgye built a temple in this place to commemorate Guru Rinpoche.Thereafter the Taktsang Monastery was built.Taktsang , spelled as 'Stag Tshang' in tibetan,literally means "Tiger's Lair".
But in 1998,a fire broke-out in the monastery from the butter lamps kept inside the temples,damaging a large portion of the place.The government & the reigning King overlooked the restoration of the monastery which was completed by 2005.


THE JOURNEY

"Sometimes its the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination."

The monastery is located 10 kms from the center of Paro,and hangs on a sheer inclined cliff at 10,240 ft high.These are just some figures which are available everywhere & honestly it doesn't matter much.But starting from the base of the hike,the view itself can be pretty overwhelming & encouraging at the same time.

The view of the Taktsang Monastery from the base
The tiny speck of white structure perched high above near the mountain-top is the destination.Quite intimidating as well !

At the base,where the car drops you,there is the ticket office.The ticket costs Rs 500 per person.A quick tip (which I haven't found written elsewhere),there is a student discount of 50% on showing a valid student Id.
One can also find horses on rent, up to half way of the hike,at Rs 500 each.Trust me,the road is pretty difficult,more so for the horses due to their size & four limbs.So,don't ride them just for joy,as its very exhausting for them.


Our fun,their exhaustion




This is the road condition uphill,which was pretty sheer at some points.So make sure to rent a stick from the base (you have to have it on return journey,more so if it rains).



This point onward,you have to continue by foot only.Horse-rides also end here.You can take a small break here & soak in the pure beauty of what lies in front.


After another few min walk,there is a nice but overpriced cafe,named Taktsang Cafe;with seats providing full view of the mountain & monastery.Its better not to buy anything there,unless you wanna splurge.

Still going up,you reach the view point,from where proper stone steps come in to play.Though there are about 1000 steps,but that feels like the toughest stretch of the hike.But during this part,the monastery does not leave your sight (that provides the encouragement to carry on).

 Trust me,this view alone is worth the whole hike.

From the view-point you have to go down,cross a small bridge over a waterfall,and again go up to the monastery.The tranquility, ambience & feel of the whole area just fills up your soul.

There is a locker near the entry point to keep your bags,mobiles & cameras (as these are not allowed inside).

At the front gate you are welcomed by a group of young monks,serving hot tea & prasad from the morning offerings to the temples.The prasad (which means the blessed offerings from the deities) is also quite interesting;ranging from biscuits,snacks,chocolates,marshmallows to what not.

Upon entry to the monastery,keep in mind to leave your shoes behind before entering the temples.Also spend some time with the monks to learn about the details of the legend & history of the monastery. Then only you can understand the importance of this place.You can also watch monks during their prayer session,which fills up the air around with spiritual richness,making you forget about the outside world for that time.



The return journey,as always,seems more tiring & difficult.Occasional showers may increase the difficulty & make progress very much slower.But be careful & remember to take your time while coming down.Accidents always come unannounced.


P.S. - While your inside the monastery,ask the monks or your guide about the cave where the Tigress went after dropping off the Guru.Its located inside a dark narrow crevice in the mountain,with 3 makeshift ladders to go down.If not claustrophobic,do try to reach the bottom & visit the shrine of the tigress.


In the end,the Taktsang Monastery is definitely worth a visit.To understand its legend,to soak in the beauty,to feel the spiritual richness & also to understand the tremendous difficulty that was overcome to build something of such magnificence on such a sheer cliff.It demands your presence & respect.



THINGS TO NOTE BEFORE YOU VISIT

1.CLOTHING - Wear in layers.During the hike,you may feel very hot,but the weather changes fast creating the need for light jackets.Cannot emphasize enough to carry a raincoat.Also be modestly dressed,after all its a monastery,so maintain cover up to elbows & knees,at least

2.SNACKS - Carry some light snacks with you.It helps during the hike.More importantly,carry adequate water to stay hydrated.This also saves money as food items are quite overpriced at the cafe.

3.SECURITY - Carry a day-pack with you,which you can keep in the locker near the entrance.Do bring a small lock & key,as most lockers don't have one.

4.PATIENCE - Like any other hikes,do take your time & be careful on the road.More so if it rains.Because the initial half part of the hike is mostly of clay & mud,which creates very much difficulty.So be patient.

5.TICKETS - Remember to get the tickets near the base.If possible,carry a student Id to avail the 50% discount (saving some money doesn't hurt,right).

6.TIME - Start early in the morning.Depending upon your fitness,the journey can take about 5-6 hours.But its better to keep some extra time in hand.Also,never rush.

7.SOUVENIRS - If you want to buy some souvenirs (I prefer small ones;easier to carry),I would advise to buy from the small local vendors near the base.I got fridge magnets at half the price compared with markets at Thimphu or Paro.

Thursday, October 4, 2018

A taste of cultural richness of Bhutan - Thimphu Tshechu 2018



"A nation's culture resides in the hearts and in the soul of its people."- Mahatma Gandhi


In order to truly understand the people of a different community or country,there is no better way than to immerse oneself in their culture & traditions.Bhutan being a small & mountainous land locked country,their local traditions & culture have been unadulterated for centuries.

The roots of Tshechu goes deep into the chronology of Bhutan.As per history,Guru Rinpoche visited Tibet & Bhutan during 8th and 9th century.During his visit,he came across the dying king of Bumthang,Sindhu Raja. To restore his health,the Guru performed a series of dances across the country.After the king's health was restored,he spread Buddhism & teachings of the Guru all over Bhutan in the Guru's honor.
In order to pay respect to the Guru & his contributions,every year the Bhutanese people celebrate the festival of dance at different parts of the country.Its their firm belief,that all theirs sins will be washed away & the upcoming year would be prosperous if they follow this tradition.

This year,I was lucky enough to plan my trip to Bhutan during the Thimphu Tshechu,which was held 19th to 21st September.There was a feeling of anticipation & excitement from the previous day.Everyone was preparing for the Tshechu at Thimphu.We could feel why it was their largest festival.
We woke up early in the morning to leave for the Thimphu Dzong. The fresh morning air welcomed us with a sense of calmness & happiness,making us feel the special moment.

Thimphu Chuu
Tashicchodzong

The Thimphu Tshechu was established on 1670 by their 4th ruler,Tenzing Rabgye (1638-1696),to commemorate the birth of Guru Rinpoche.It is held in the courtyard of Tashichhodzong,and also considered as one of the most beautiful Tshechus.Also its one of the easiest ones to access by foreigners.

Our guide explained to us about their traditional attires,called Gho,with different colored scarves according to their positions or ranks in the social ladder.Even on reaching the dzong quite early,we found it to be nearly full.We then heard that many seats are even occupied from the night before.





It was also a time of great fun & frolic,specially for the kids.The local people even brought snacks with them,to have a picnic on the sides & enjoying the festival at the same time.



The traditional Masked Dance


The bright red characters in front are called Atsaras.Their role is to liven up the festival with jokes,witty behaviors & exaggerated movements.They also help to explain the meaning of the masked dances to the spectators.

If anyone is planning to visit Bhutan,my advise is to plan their itinenary according to the dates of the Tshechu. Because that way,you can get a taste of the richness of their local culture & traditions,which perfectly compliments the natural beauty of the The Land of Thunder Dragon.

I forgot to mention about the entry procedure.If you have booked your trip through a travel agency or have taken a guide,then there is no separate fee.Or if you plan yourself,like we did,there is a entry fee of Rs 300 per person.